A fresh country salad is a good accompaniment to this dish
 

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Before the Greek struggle for independence began in 1821 in protest against centuries of Ottoman rule, the mountains of Cyprus and Greece were full of wild bands of robbers. These men were universally feared, and not just on account of their cattle-stealing activities. These kleftes (robbers), with their growing sense of national consciousness, eventually became militant and successful freedom fighters, who later played an important role as guerrilla fighters in the Greek civil war. From then on, kleftouria has represented a way of life supporting the belief that a hunger for freedom and selfdetermination is justifiable reason for breaking laws. Since the robbers and rebels were obviously not able to satisfy their appetities for long on meat they had produced themselves, the kleftiko has gone down in history as the dish most famously associated with them. There is no way of proving for certain whether they really did prepare their meat in a well-hidden and buried clay oven, but one thing is for sure: the clay oven had to be made airtight and sealed for many hours, if not days, before the kleftiko meat was ready.

It is still prepared in the same way today. Kleftiko is made from lamb, kid, or beef from older animals since the meat is supposed to be hard and tough. It is cut into portions and rubbed with lots of lemon juice, then seasoned with salt and oregano. Then off it goes into the pot. For the dish to succeed, it is important to preheat the clay oven with charcoal to a low temperature. To prevent it being exposed straight away to high temperatures, broken bits of clay are placed over the hot coals. Only then is it safe to put the pot containing the meat into the oven. Bay leaves are used to improve the flavor of the meat. It tastes even better if is doused occasionally with beer or wine before the clay oven is finally sealed with yet more clay. The meat is ready to serve after three hours, but tastes even better, if you can leave it in the oven for 48 hours. By then, it will be crisp on the outside and very tender inside. thickly sliced sauted potatoes and fresh bread make perfect accompaniments to kleftiko.

Excerpts from: "Culinaria Greece" by Marianthi Minola
 

Vangelis and Irene Papas, Rapsodies

The Weeping Meadow, by Theo Angelopoulos (NTSC)
 

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  Featured Destination: Samothrace

GEOGRAPHY.
Samothrace is located in the northeast Aegean, opposite Alexandroupolis, from which it is just 29 nautical miles distant. It belongs to the Prefecture of Evros and covers an area of 178 sq, km., has 58km. of coastline and a population of 2871. There is a local boat service from Alexandroupolis and, once a week, a connection with Kavala and Lemnos. A mountainous island (highest peak Fengar, 1448 m. a.s.l.) with dense vegetation cover and numerous monuments, it is still relatively untouched by tourism and may be recommended for quiet holidays. In addition to its capital, Samothrace, there are other villages on the island: Kamariotissa, Palaiopolis, Xiropotamos, Therma, Profitis Ilisas and Lakoma.

HISTORY
Samothrace was first inhabited in the Neolithic era. In around 1000 BC Thracian colonisers came here, intermarrying with the indigenous population. The island's present capital, Samothrace (Chora), is located on its west coast. A traditional town, it is dominated by the massive medieval castle. At Palaiopolis, on the north side of the island, there are traces of the ancient city, built in around 700 BC close to the sanctuary of the Cabeiroi (great gods). The sanctuary, which attained its zenith in Hellenistic times, was never totally destroyed and has been excavated by the American School of Classical Studies. Various sections of the Cyclopean wall, palace (6th century BC edifice), theatre, propylon and the foundations of diverse buildings of the sanctuary (temples, "ex votos", votive of Philip II and Alexander IV etc.) have been revealed. One may also visit the ancient cemetery (7th century BC - 2nd century AD) and remnants of medieval towers (15th century) nearby. Among the diverse finds displayed in its small Archaeological Museum is a plaster cast of the famous statue of the Winged Victory, discovered at Palaiopoli and nowadays housed in the Louvre, Paris. At Therma (13km. from the harbour), where there is a therapeutic spring, one ma enjoy the unique vista of the coast opposite, as well as the islands of Thasos and Lemnos. There are excursions by local boats to the southern shores (Ammos) of Samothraace with their dense vegetation, streams and brooks. There is little provision for tourists (just one hotel and a few rooms to let) and a very rudimentary network of roads.
 

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