Almonds a la Sporades
In the same way that the chestnut tree spread from Asia Minor to Thessaly and thence to the Sporades Islands, the almond tree (Prunus dul-cis) likewise found its way to these small, rocky islands where it quickly put down roots thanks to its ability to survive on very little water.
Prior to the commercial cultivation of the almond tree, consumption of the seeds of the wild variety, which contain prussic acid, may well have caused unfortunate side-effects. Since about 500 B.C., however, sweet almonds, amygdale, have been a familiar ingredient in desserts, combined with eggs and walnuts, for instance.
Almonds, like pistachios, are classified as stone fruits. The part used in baking or in candies is the white inner seed, with its brown hull removed, and is found inside the stone enclosed by the green fleshy fruit case. The Sporades Islands, despite their limited agricultural possibilities, have developed almond cultivation to a level not seen on any other group of Greek islands.
On Skopelos alone, which is also famous for its plums, 16.5 US tons (15 tonnes) of almonds are harvested each year. The women of the Sporades make an almond cream from peeled almonds by grating them while still warm and mixing them quickly with sugar and water. This cream is served by the spoonful. Grated white almonds, lots of superfine sugar, lightly beaten egg white and flower essence are the ingredients which go to make khamalid, a marzipan-type delicacy, which is usually served at weddings and on name days.
The mixture is shaped into an appropriate form for the occasion, baked in the oven and finally dusted with confectioners' sugar. Roxedes is prepared in a similar way to khamalid, but using coarse sugar instead and not baked, which means it does not keep as well. Almond milk, amigdalozoumi, is a popular drink during Lent and at funerals. This is made by simmering peeled, ground almonds in boiling water and then straining the liquid through a cloth.
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Inside the green case of
unripe almonds. |
The white kernel is still
soft. |
Once ripe, the flesh
becomes dry and the hardened kernel protects the seed,
which is the actual almond. |
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Countless almonds are
cracked open to make the almond snacks and desserts. |
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KOURABIEDES
Almond cookies
1 1/2 cups/200 g whole almonds, peeled
2 cups/ 450 g soft butter
7/8 cup/200 g sugar
3 egg yolks
4 tbsp brandy
Seeds from 1 vanilla pod
8 1/2 cups/900 g all-purpose flour
2 tsp baking powder
4 tbsp rose water
Confectioners' sugar
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Directions
Preheat the oven to 375 °F (190 °C). Lay the almonds on a baking sheet and roast in the oven, before chopping them up finely. Cream the butter and sugar together in a bowl, then add the egg yolks, brandy, and vanilla seeds in that order. Sift the flour and baking powder into the bowl, add the almonds and mix together well. Sprinkle your work surface with flour and tip the mixture out onto it, kneading it into a smooth dough. Roll this out until it is just under
1/2 inch/1 cm thick. Using the rim of a glass, cut out small semicircles and arrange them on greased baking sheets. Bake in a preheated oven for about 20 minutes. Leave to cool on a cooling rack, sprinkle with rose water and dust with confectioners' sugar.
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