August 2008 Newsletter: Special Feature
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 Special Feature: Heritage Walks in Athens
 6th Heritage Walk: The Heart of the Modern Greek State

(Continued from July's Issue)
 

STARTING POINT: Syntagma Station
TERMINUS
: Acropolis Station


The 6th walk is a journey through 19th century Athens, the capital of the newly formed independent Greek State.


(1) SYNTAGMA SQUARE (CONSTITUTION SQUARE): The most important square in Athens, named so as to commemorate September 3, 1843, when an Athenian revolt led by the military forced King Otho to grant a constitution. The 1843 constitution continued to consider the monarch as the source of sovereignty but gave the suffrage to the majority of the male population of Greece. The 1864 constitution, after the exile of Otho and the choice as King of George I, from Denmark, transferred sovereignty from the King to the people and instituted universal male adult suffrage, long before most countries in Europe. Excavations unprecedented in extent took place here in recent years due to the construction of the Metro. The land was found to have been inhabited since the Sub-Mycenaean period (12th century BC) and until Ottoman times, but had been on the outer side both of the Diochares Gate, of the classical Themistocleian Wall, and of the Ottoman walls built by Haseki in 1778. Inside Syntagma Station, one can see now a representation of consecutive surfaces chronicling the history of the area; the lowest surface corresponds to the 5th century BC, and the highest to the 19th century.

The riverbed of the Iridanos and the wide ancient street, that started from the Gate of Diochares Gate and led to Mesogaia, were also traced in the same area. The street was found to have been paved some 30 times, and there are visible traces of wheels on some of the earthen surfaces. Tombs were found on both sides of the street. Special mention should be made of two burials of dogs and one common burial of a horse and a dog. In one of the animal burials, two glass perfume cruets (1st or 2nd century AD) and a wonderfully crafted collar were found, grave offerings very similar to those found in human graves. Some of the findings, mostly vessels dating from various periods, are now displayed underground, on the station premises. Additional findings include sections of an aqueduct of outstanding craftsmanship, that known as the "Peisistrateion" which actually dates from the first half of the 5th century BC. After the invasion of the Herules (267 AD), a large part of today's square was occupied by a huge bath complex, which was later destroyed, probably by the Goths under Alaric (396 AD), and reconstructed in the 5th century AD.

(2) THE PARLIAMENT BUILDING: The building that now houses the Greek Parliament was built in 1836-1843 by the Bavarian architect Fr. Goertner as a royal palace. It continued in this use until 1909, when it was partly damaged by fire. Since 1932 it is the seat of the Greek Parliament. The Monument to the Unknown Soldier of 1932, now the focal point of all national celebrations, was designed by the architect Adrianos Lazaridis and the sculptors Phokion Roek and Constantinos Dimitriadis (the "Parisian"). (tel.: 210 3707000)

(3) EGYPTIAN EMBASSY: The former residence of Georgios Psyhas, an elegant neoclassical mansion built in 1875 by the architect Ernest Ziller. (3 Vasilissis Sofias Ave, tel.: 210 3618612)

(4) ITALIAN EMBASSY: Built in 1885 by the architect Ernest Ziller, appointed by the merchant Stephanos Psyhas. Later, it became the residence of Prince Nicholas, son of King George. In 1935 it was purchased by the Italian State, and has since been the seat of the Italian Embassy. (2 Sekeri St, tel.: 210 3617260)

(5) FRENCH EMBASSY: Built in the early 20th century by the architect Anastasios Metaxas. Former residence of the Carolos Merlin family. The French Embassy has been housed here since 1914-15. (7 Vasilissis Sofias Ave, tel.: 210 3391000-21)

(6) NATIONAL GARDEN: Originally, and until 1922, this was the Royal Garden, open to the public for limited hours only. A smaller piece of land was first planted in the 1840s by the Bavarian agronomist Schmidt. In the 1850s, the garden was expanded to its current size: the whole area was marked out and new trees were planted in accordance with the English gardening style, which favored rich vegetation. It is considered a botanical garden of, mostly, Greek flora, including: "tixilitha" (densely planted pine trees from Sounio); "boreana variabilis" from Mount Parnitha; "sacred" palm trees from Delos, etc. Some 15,000 roots of noble trees were sent here from Genoa. The palm-trees inside the entrance of the garden were sent here by the Regent of Egypt. Roses and Granada seeds, a gift from the King of Spain, were planted all over the garden. According to the French romantic poet Ernest Renan, "A stroll in this garden is the most beautiful and glorious stroll in the world...". (1 Vasilissis Amalias Ave, tel.: 210 7211178)

(7) CHURCH OF SOTEIRA LYCODEMOS (now the RUSSIAN CHURCH): It dates to the first half of the 11th century. The founder was a man named Stephanos, clearly a member of the local Lycodemos family. It is an octagonal church, a much larger structure compared to the other churches of Athens, bearing splendid Byzantine decoration on the outer walls. It is a copy of the Katholikon, or central monastic church, of Osios Loukas in Boeotia. During Ottoman rule it belonged to a monastery that was destroyed by an earthquake in 1701. The Russians bought the church in 1847, restored it in 1855, and added a bell tower. It was painted by the Bavarian painter Ludwig Thiersch and the Greek painter Nikiforos Lytras. (21 Filellinon St, tel.: 210 3231090)

(8) ANGLICAN CHURCH OF ST. PAUL: Its construction began in 1838 to plans by H. Acland in a neo - gothic style. Some alterations were made by C.R. Cockerell and Ch. Hansen. (Filellinon St)

(9) JEWISH MUSEUM: A Historical and Folk Museum that presents the social, religious and cultural activities of the Jewish community in Greece since 300 BC. There are moving records of World War II; when, fortunately, the majority of Athenian Jews managed to escape the Nazi genocide, but the Jewish communities in Greece as a whole were tragically decimated. (39 Nikis St, tel.: 210 3225582)

(10) GREEK MUSEUM FOR CHILDREN'S ART: Founded in 1994. The museum aims at the aesthetic education and promotion of creativity in children, by introducing them to all forms of art and helping them appreciate it. It displays paintings and artistic structures by children from the ages of four to fourteen. (9 Kodrou St, tel.: 210 3312750)

(11) KYDATHINEON ST: Named after the "Kydathineon", an aristocratic deme of ancient Athens. In medieval times it was known as «Platea rouga tou Aligomou».

(12) CHURCH OF AGHIA SOTEIRA OF COTTAKIS: A four-columned cross-in-square church, built in the second half of the 11th century, probably on the ruins of an earlier church. An extension in 1908 altered the appearance of the building. According to the Greek historian Kambouroglou, it was originally dedicated to Panaghia the Soteira; instead, it now celebrates its patrional feast on the day of the Transfiguration of the Saviour.

(13) SEFERIADIS-TSATSOS HOUSE: For a short time the residence of the diplomat and poet George Seferis, the 1963 Nobel Prize winner for literature, and until the end of their lives of Constantinos Tsatsos, philosopher and former President of the Republic of Greece (1975-1980), and his wife Joanna, who was Geoge Seferis' sister. (9 Kydathineon St)

(14) CENTRE FOR ASIA MINOR STUDIES: Dedicated to the recording and preservation of the culture of the Greek Communities in the Asia Minor prior to 1922. It is housed in one of the first buildings that were built in the city shortly after its liberation from the Ottomans.

(15) MUSEUM OF GREEK FOLK ART: It displays a broad range of Modern Greek folk art, illustrating clearly the forming of the Modern Greek cultural identity from the mid 17th to the early 20th centuries. It exhibits embroideries, metalwork, ceramic art, wood sculptures, silverwork, costumes, etc. Ofparticular interest is the room exhibiting the wall paintings from a house in Lesvos, the work of the popular painter Theofilos Hatzimichael (1860-1934). (17 Kydathineon St, tel.: 210 3229031)

(16) GREEK CHILDREN'S MUSEUM: For children under 12, their parents, and teachers. It was founded in 1994, with the collaboration of the Municipality of Athens. It is housed in a neoclassical building that dates from c.1900. (14 Kydathineon St, tel.: 210 3312995-7)

(17) IOANNIS PAPARRIGOPOULOS MANSION: (27 Kydathineon St)

(18) FILOMOUSOU ETAIRIAS SQUARE: Named after the Filomousos Etairia, originally founded as the former "Athenian Library", in 1813. It's objectives were of a social, cultural and national.

  • TRIPODON ST

  • ELLINIKI ETAIRIA

  • LYSICRATES' MONUMENT

  • ACROPOLIS STATION (M)

To read about these 4 locations, please refer to our March newsletter featuring Heritage Walk #1

Excerpt from: "Heritage Walks in Athens" by the Municipality of Athens Cultural Organization,
and by the Elliniki Etairia Hellenic Society for the Protection of the Environment and the Cultural Heritage


Next Month's Article:
Heritage Walk #7: MUSEUMS, COLLECTIONS, AND THE NATIONAL GARDEN

 

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