Special Feature: Appetizer Culture


For a Greek restaurant, its appetizers, or starters, Mezedes, are a kind of visiting card.  Through its mezes, the restaurant demonstrates just what its kitchen can do.  After all, the whole range of foodstuffs - meat, fish, vegetables, and dairy products - is available for use in Greek appetizers.  They range from the simple and refined to the brilliantly creative, and quite often reflect the main courses.  They can be eaten hot of cold and may be just the introduction or the main course itself - whatever the customer chooses.

In the cities especially around midday the great army of office workers is drawn in little groups to the countless small restaurants that have opened up in recent years, hidden among the rows of houses, and that have now become sought-after addresses.  In the mezedopolio, a shop selling nothing but mezes as far as the eye can see, there will certainly be something to suit every taste.  Ouzo, the Greek anise-flavored schnapps, is a constant accompaniment to all mezedes.  Drunk with ice, water, or straight, its task is to reinforce the appetizing sensation aroused by the mezedes.  "Appetite making" is, after all, the meaning of the word mezes, which comes from Turkish.  Appetizers certainly do that, but if you are not careful, they manage to do something else as well; they make you feel much too full much too quickly, just because you are longing to try a bit of everything.  You can always tell experienced connoisseurs of mezedes by the restrained way their forks pick up, say a piece of squid, then a potato, perhaps an olive next or maybe a small meatball.  In between people chat, break off a piece of break, sip their glass of ouzo, have a drink of water, and generally take their time.  Where people dine in groups, all selecting uninhibitedly from the dishes, something of the original rural Greece has obviously survived, as in the past whole villages would demonstrate and renew their social solidarity through similar forms of communal eating. 

The difference regions of Greece reveal the characteristics of their cuisine not least in the selection and preparation of the typical local mezedes.  So the mezes must definitely be seen as a kind of ambassador.  For example, in the areas which were once strongly Ottoman, oriental influences predominate, while a western fragrance permeate those parts of the country which were formerly under Venetian sovereignty.  On the Greek islands, the selection of mezedes is still determined by what is produced on each island, and on the mainland, appetizers have a stronger taste than in the south of Greece.  They whole variety of Greek mezedes can be seen gathered together in the big cities, where the host's origins and the preferences of his regular customers are the deciding factors.  And they are available from morning till night, because Greek appetizer culture is a round-the-clock affair.  Mezedes will be available at any time of the day, even if you arrive at 11 p.m.
 

  Featured Destination: Naxos

GEOGRAPHY. Naxos, in the midst of Mykonos, Amorgos and Paros, is not only the largest island in the Cyclades but also the most fertile. 428 sq. km. in area. 148 km. of coast, 103 nautical miles from Piraeus. There are car and passenger ferry links with Piraeus, as well as Paros, los and Santorini. Regular communications with Syros, Sikinos, Amorgos, Anaphi, Pholegandros and Herakleion (Crete) (less frequent during the winter). Car ferries from Rafina link the island with Paros, Syros, Tenos and Amorgos (infrequent). There is also a local boat service operating between Mykonos, los, Santorini, Siphnos and Seriphos and even with Amorgos, Schinousa, Herakleia, Kouphonisia and Donousa. Excursions by caique to Paros are also organized. The island's capital, Naxos (Chora) has a population of 14,037. Though a mountainous island (highest peak Za, 1004 m. a.s.l., the highest summit in the Cyclades), there are extensive tracts of flat land since the mountainous massifs are concentrated in the eastern and southern part of the island, which is also the most sparsely populated. In addition to its agricultural produce, Naxos has considerable mineral, wealth (marble, granite, emery). Its green landscape, numerous sandy beaches, picturesque villages and abundance of archaeological and historic monuments attract many visitors, particularly those to whom an enjoyable vacation includes hikes and rambles. Whereas tourist facilities are good in Chora, they are somewhat rudimentary in the hinterland, as is the road network.

HISTORY. Tradition relates that Naxos was first settled by Thracians, bringing with them their cult of Dionysos. They were succeeded by Karians and Ionians. From the plethora and wealth of finds from excavations (Grotta), Naxos was evidently the centre of the Cycladic civilization (3200 -2100 BC), it was inhabited in Mycenaean times (Aplomata) and during the period of Ionian colonization (circa 1000 BC) it experienced yet another floruit, culminating in the 7th and 6th century BC. It fought against the Persians in the Persian Wars, became a member of the Athenian League and subsequently passed to the Macedonians, Egyptian Ptolemies, Rhodians and, finally, the Romans. Raids by pirates were so frequent in Byzantine times that the inhabitants withdrew to its interior for protection and built reconnaissance towers from which they repelled the attackers. In 1207 Marcos Sanudos captured the island, establishing it as seat of the Duchy of Naxos and the Archipelago. In 1537 it was laid waste by Barbarossa, from 1566-67 it belonged to Joseph Naze and, eventually, capitulated to the Turks. It was liberated along with the rest of the Cyclades.

SIGHTS-MONUMENTS. Chora, the main town, is built on the west side of the island and is one of the most beautiful Cycladic towns, including monuments from all eras. On a tiny islet at the entrance to the harbor stands a large gateway (pyle) known as "Portara", which belonged to the incomplete Archaic temple of Apollo (6th century BC), purported to be Ariadne's palace in popular tradition. In Byzantine times a three-aisled basilica was erected here, which was destroyed by Turkish invaders in 1344 and was never rebuilt. The dominant feature of Chora, with its steep streets and old houses (sometimes three-storied), with significant wall-paintings and, to the east, the Venetian tower of the Barozzi, property of the Gratsias family. Other noteworthy churches are the Virgin Damniotissa (at Kaloxylo) and St. Nicholas at Akadimoi, where the Makropolitis tower also stands. At Moni (4 km. northeast of Chalki) stands the Byzantine church of the Virgin Drosiani (6th century), the oldest on the island. North of Chalki are the churches of St. Isidoros, the Virgin Rachidiotissa and the ruins of the Catholic monastery of St. Francis. West of Chalki are the ruins of the Venetian Ano Kastro (upper castle) (circa 1250). There are ruined Venetian towers at Potamia, as well as the church of St. Mamas (9th Century). The road from Chalki leads to the village of Filoti with its church of the Virgin (Dormition). On one of the peaks of mount Za, southwest of Filoti, is the Za cave or cave of the Bacchae, an ancient cult centre where, legend has it, Zeus was born. 7 km. east of Filoti is the village of Danakos and 4.5 km. northeast is the lovely village of Apeirathos with its markedly Venetian aspect in the architecture of the houses and the towers of the Sommaripa, Crispo and SfortzaKastri. In the local museum there is a significant collection of finds from the area, mainly of the Early Cycladic period. A short distance from the village are the churches of the Theologian (14th century), St. Kyriaki (9th century) and the Virgin (13th century).

There are equally charming villages to the southwest of Chora, with windmills and places of interest. At Glinado there is the church of St. George, while west of Tripodes is the church of St. Matthew and the ruined tower (Palaiopyrgos) of Plaka. Further south, near the coast, is Polichni, where there are traces of a prehistoric installation, as well as of a Venetian tower. The towers of Sammaripa, Della Rocca, Palaiologos and Barozzi at Sangri, the Byzantine churches of the Sts. Anargyroi, St. John on the site of the ancient sanctuary of Demeter and Persephone, St. Eleftherios, the Virgin Kaloritissa in the east and St. Nicholas in the south (10th/13th century), the Virgin Arkouliotissa and Sts. Akindynos and George all merit attention. South of Sangri is the ruined medieval Apalyros castle. Southeast is the impressive Cheimarros tower, which can be reached from Filoti. At Korfari ton Amygdalion in the gulf of Panormos, on the southeast coast, remnants of a fortified prehistoric settlement (2400-2300 BC) have been found.
In the village of Galini on the east side of the island, between Chora and Engares, is the Ypsili monastery, a fortified tower built by lakovos Kokkos in 1600. There is a preserved Venetian tower at Kourounochori, from where the road leads south to Kinidaros, where there was a temple of Artemis. North of the village, at Florio, there is a half-finished Archaic kouros (6th century BC). One reaches the northeast side of the island via the road from Apeirathos, visiting the villages of Koronos, Skado, Komiaki and Apollonas, where there is a colossal, unfinished statue of a kouros in the form of Apollo (7th century BC) "in situ" on the ground. At Kalogeros, even further south, there is a ruined medieval fortress.

The best beaches are on the west side of the island: Aghios Prokopis, Mikri Vigla, Kastraki, Alykos, Pyrgaki, Ayassos with fine golden sand. Those on the east side Apollonas, Psili Ammos and Panormos and in the north Pachela Ammos, Chilia Vrysi and Abrami, only accessible by private car or boat, are suitable for swimming and fishing. There are buses from Chora to all the beaches; the road to Panormos is unmetalled. Accommodation is available in several hotels, pensions, rented rooms and apartments. If one has a boat there are any number of small coves to discover. In the island's interior it is also possible to shoot birds and small game (northeast and southwest side) in season.
 

 Museum Guides for your trip in the area

 Saints' Namedays in August

Icons depicting the celebrated Saint, make great gifts for namedays.
Shop among our great collection of icons at our store. Also available, namedays, birthday, holiday, and special occasion greeting cards.

Gold and Silver Icons	Hand painted Icons	Icons by Zafiris
Want to know more about Orthodox Saints? Complete biographies of Orthodox Saints are now available.

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