GEOGRAPHY.
Melos differs from the other isles of the Western
Cyclades on account of its volcanic geomorphology, to
which it owes its mineral resources. Surface area 151
sq. km., length of coast 126 km., distance from Piraeus
86 nautical miles. There are both car and passenger
ferries from Piraeus, connections with Siphnos, Seriphos
and Kimolos, via the route Piraeus-Kavala, with
Pholegandros, Anaphi, Santorini, Aghios Nikolaos and
Siteia in Crete, the Dodecanese and the islands of the
east and north Aegean (once a week throughout the year).
There is a local link with Kimolos and, during the
summer, with Siphnos. Last but not least, there are
flights from Athens. The island's capital is Melos (Plaka)
and its population of 4,554 is engaged in agriculture,
fishing and trade. The climate is mild, vegetation quite
rich, the landscape lovely and there are plenty of sandy
beaches beside its clear sea. There are good tourist
facilities capable of providing services for many
holidaymakers, attracted by its scenery, places of
interest and the quiet island life of its attractive
villages.
HISTORY. Melos holds an outstanding place in the history
of the Aegean area in general. Inhabited since
prehistoric times, it attained pre-eminence during the
period of the Cycladic civilization. Tools and artefacts
of Melian obsidian have been found not only in the
Cyclades but also in Crete, indicating the island's
advanced development. Around the middle of the 2nd
millennium BC it came within the Minoan sphere of
influence and not long afterwards Mycenaeans settled
here, to be followed by Dorian colonists in around 1000
B.C. Melos fought in the Persian Wars but because of its
insistence on neutrality during the Peloponnesian War
the Athenians launched two punitive campaigns against
it, laying waste the land, decimating the male
population and putting the women and children in
bondage. Ten years elapsed before the island was
resettled. In Hellenistic times it belonged to the
Macedonians, heralding a new era of prosperity, based on
the export of its mineral wealth. This acme is verified
by such artistic creations as the Aphrodite (Venus) of
Melos and the statue of Poseidon. There followed the
Roman occupation and then the Byzantine era when it was
harassed by pirates. At about this time (circa 800 AD)
the area of Kastro was inhabited, being rebuilt later by
the Venetians, who governed Melos under the Franks. It
was sacked by Barbarossa in 1537 and later subjugated by
the Turks. Throughout the Turkish occupation its harbor
was a refuge for corsairs. Melos played an active role
in the Struggle for Independence and was liberated along
with the rest of the Cyclades. In 1853 Sfakiotes from
Crete settled here, establishing its present port,
Adamas.
SIGHTS-MONUMENTS. Melos' unusual shape is a
consequence of volcanic activity in the depths of the
harbour at Adamas. This is one of the largest natural
harbours in the Mediterranean and the small town on its
creek with its snow-white houses and cobbled streets is
a hub of tourism and commerce. The important church of
the Holy Trinity with its valuable icons is located
here. Plaka, the island's main town, stands on a hill
above the harbour (4.5 km.), its characteristic Cycladic
houses commanding a unique view of the Aegean. It is
dominated by the mass of its castle, to which the
cobbled streets lead up beneath archways. The churches
of the Virgin Thalassitria and St. Eleousa are
preserved. Housed in
the
local Museum are notable finds from Neolithic times to
the present, outstanding among which are the Cycladic
figurines, obsidian tools and artefacts. The Folk Museum
is housed in a 19th century building, along witha
creditable library. From the top of the castle one can
survey the villages of Trypiti, Triovasalos and Pera
Triovasalos. 2 km. south of Plaka is Klima, site of the
ancient city of Melos in historical times, where
sections of the fortification wall (6th - 5th century
BC) have been revealed in excavation, as well as the
auditorium of the theatre near Treis Ekklesies. Here too
there are remains of an Early Christian baptistery and a
three-aisled basilica, near which the site of the
ancient stadium has been located. It was in this area
that the statue of the Venus of Melos (now in the Louvre)
was recovered in 1820. 7th century BC pottery has also
been found here, as well as a number of so-called Melian
vases with polychrome representations in the
Orientalising style.
In 1840 the famous Katakomves (catacombs) were uncovered
at Klima, counterparts of those in Rome and the only
monuments of that kind. They consist of a system of
underground passages 180 m. long and divided into three
unequal sectors. Dated to the 3rd and 4th century AD,
they were a place of asylum for the first Christians and
also the place where they buried their dead. Indeed some
2000 bodies were laid to rest in graves along the
passages and recesses. It is not possible to visit the
catacombs. 12 km. east of Plaka is the village of
Apollonia or Pollonia with its lovely seashore. Some 3-4
km. before this village is the prehistoric city of
Phylakopi where excavations have brought to light three
successive levels dated, on the basis of the finds, to
the Early Cycladic (City I) Middle Cycladic (City II)
and Mycenaean (City III) period, the latter with its
palace and fortified enclosure. Finds from this general
area (mainly pottery and obsidian) have considerably
augmented our knowledge of the Early Cycladic
civilization. Beneath the ancient city are the three
Papafranga caves, formerly a pirates' lair. Southeast of
Adamas (8 km.) is the village of Zefyria on the desolate
site of Palaiochora which was abandoned at the end of
the 18th century. To the north of the village is the
ruined church of
Christ,
as well as the deserted, fortress-like monastery of the
Virgin Kastriani. The churches of the Virgin Portiani
(in which sections of wall-paintings are preserved) and
St. Charalambos are of 17th century date. Among the
island's Byzantine monuments is the church of the virgin
at Kipos (5th century), while one of the oldest
monasteries is that of St. Marina at Chalakas. The beach
at Chivadolimni (8 km. from Adamas) is perhaps the most
beautiful on the island. There are holiday villages at
Palaiochori and Emboreio. All the beaches around the bay
of Melos are delightful, as are those at Apollonia,
Provatas and Mandrakia. There are therapeutic springs at
Adamas, in the gulf of Provatas and at Alyki. On the
southwest side of the island, below the monastery of St.
John, is the Smaragdenia cave (Emerald cave) or Sykia,
where the sunbeams filter through part of the roof,
creating emerald reflections in the calm waters of the
grotto. In the cliffs further south (3 miles) are the
caves known as Thalassina Meteora or Kleftiko from which
pirates launched their raids.
Fringing the north coast of the island are diverse rocky
islets of volcanic origin (Akrathi, Arouda, Erimomilos),
while in the vicinity of Pollonia there are the
Glaronisia, one of nature's rarest and most impressive
creations. They are formed of symmetrical, hexagonal
columns of basalt, vertically or obliquely aligned and
up to 20 m. high. To sail between them in a boat or
caique is a truly memorable experience. For those with a
boat there are several other wonderful beaches (Chivadolimni,
Emboreio, Provatas) and nearby islets and there is a
refueling station for yachts at Adamas. Visitors may
choose accommodation in hotels, rooms or furnished
apartments.
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